Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Sc/Rambler How To ID (Is it real ?)

coming to a garage near you , you want the real deal , or a clone ?
Information here should be for identifying what you are looking to own or verify ...
Again one owner original cars are of great value to unscramble some of the mystery .
Please understand there are several clones and nothing wrong with that , just though
they are presented honestly . Any one can reply and share opinions on just where is the line drawn to what a clone or sc/r is ?? Some re bodied cars are so well done that I'd be interested
in what everyone thinks about the taboo subject ...

Lets go to common ground that people that speak Sc/Ramblerese will agree as:
Fact : All 1969 American cars and some 68 cars had the frame connectors .
Fastrogue states , that the frame connector was added in some 68 and all 69 (01 body)
cars . This was adding to the front uni-body frame to the rear of the cars .
Made more structural integrity , especially with the V8's

Note :Want a photo from an older car with out the frame connectors . As I only have 1969 cars .

Fact : All Sc/Ramblers had the 635 tach . 602 is a more common tach and635's get replaced
over the years .
Fact : Front Disc / rear drum brakes ( four piston calipers , Bendix)

Fact : Hood Pins at least should be present along with the stainless spacer

Fact : Paint , A scheme or B Scheme , the A being favored by the majority . I like both !

Not any other color was a special order , Not even pea green .....two choices of RWB !!
Fact : An X for 390 Ci in the dash serial number

Fact : The serial number will match the number behind the steering gear box .
Note : Mike Lewis wrote :The not so secret numbers under the steering box is the only sure way to tell a real SC/RAMBLER from a clone(or nicer word ''rebody'').Even this major detail of documentaion is not foolproof. Some have been known to cut out and replace that stamped section with the original from the SC/RAMBLER donor. Paint removalaround the numbers may be drastic but it should show any welding ?That still does not preclude the possibility that the entire front clip had been replaced ?

Fact : No special orders , Dealer option was only an Am radio . Dealers or persons after the car came from the shipping facility , could put power steering or A/C in .No Way was this done at Kenosha !!!
Fact : A shock absorber plate to relocate the left shock is visible in the trunk LH forward .
Shock relocation plate

 photo Bobsscrambler0041.jpg wider view

 photo Bobsscrambler0042.jpg

Fact : they all have the torque links
NOTE: Jim McKee writes:"The torque links forward bracket has a nut plate weldment inside the rear frame kick up in original SC/ Ramblers. It would be an enormous amount of work to put these nut plates in a body that did not have them originally. I have seen one rebodied SC/Rambler with both these plates installed from inside the car by cutting the floor under the seat, directly over the frame rail for access to install this plate within the frame rail. If a vehicle has one of these plates installed as it was originally and the other one has been repaired, I view this as just a repair. However, I am suspicious of vehicles with two repaired frame rail torque link bracket mount plates."
Thanks Jim !

Grey : Anyone's guess about the magazine photo that shows a regular steering wheel center .
Instead of the wood grain AMX wheel . Opinions please !!

Fact : the car is a 2 door hardtop (no post) Rogue trim .

Fact : Twin bench seats

Note : Hood Pin mount weldment !
Something to add to your list of SC/Rambler only mods is the tab welded on (passenger side only) of the upper core support so that the hood pin can be mounted in the correct position. I believe this to be a factory mod. If anyone disagrees speak up as I have been wrong before...
Courtesy of Joe Roberts

 photo rogueScrmisc0012.jpg
American body car

 photo rogueScrmisc0028.jpg Joe you are correct , Thank you !

Tailights :
Taillights are Zinc Chromate treatment on bare diecasting . Never Chromed . They appear gold/greenish like a holly carb .
Update : A few original owner report one taillight shipped stock had a chrome housing .

Appreciate this courtesy of Mike Lewis ,This plate appears to be Sc/Rambler specific .
We would like to know if any V8 Rouges might of had this tach firewall plate ...

Mikes photo:

My Sc 1 PA car :

my sc 2 AK car:

my sc 3 wi car:

A six cyl rogue plate out:

A six American 1969:

Will add this to Id the sc area
at 11:56 AM
Posted by SC/RAMBLER1969

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Hurst Rambler Scrambler Photo/Essays(restoration)

Hey everyone . Would like to get pictures and a few words for restoration help .
Eventually this could become an e-book , that will put restoration steps in order that saves time .
Plus gets the job done efficiently and the right way ..

carpet install .Here are pictures from a few of my cars . Some of a gutted SC shows the cowl pad . The other appears to be oringinal B scheme .I see the carpet has the plastic push holder . But it looks short ??I copied a few of the guys that can verify this stuff
Update : These photo's are the "real deal" , confirmed by more than one source.

Heres the original appearing carpet shots B scheme car
These are from a gutted SC/R . Also appears factory :I can try to take better shots of the drivers side , the car is sardined pretty tight at the moment ...

Paint Detail : A Scheme

SC/RAMBLER : ''A'' RED PANEL - (SEE ATTACHMENTS) These two points seem
to be the only places that the red
panel of the ''A'' paint scheme is
''free-hand''. The other parts of the
panel follow body lines.

Have heard of a mask used ??

Templates available ??

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Sc/Rambler Clips (Smoke shows)Photo's

MAY @THE PETERSEN> > PUBLIC EVENTS & PROGRAMS ----------------------------------------------> Public programs are free for museum members (unless otherwise noted) and included in Museum general admission. Reservations are recommended. For more info or reservations, call 323-964-6347 or email at
Here are photo's (Courtesy Of Mike Lewis)

Matts Sc/Rambler In Action !

Pete's Patriot VS Shirley Shahan ! In here . Etc ..

Sc/Rambler Parts Available (Big List)

Parts , What it is and where to get it ...

Headliners are here !!

Seats restored :
Gordy Chilson does the seats , and they are totaly restored . Each part is gone through from the springs , seat recliner drum and upholstery ...

Seats from Doc's Upholstery:
Hi Bob,

I just got my seats and headrest back from Doc of Doc's Upholstery in Belvidere IL and I can say without aprehension it very well may be the best upholstery job I have ever seen on a vintage muscle car. Doc's attention to detail is bordering on a obsession. The headrest he reupholstered for me probably never looked that good from the factory. The color is a dead on match to the originals I sent. The piping is perfect and perfectly straight and all the correct sizing. the seats are tight and straight. I can't thank Doc enough for being an actual craftsman who takes pride in what they do.

The good news for the Scrambler community is that Doc actually owns a B scheme car with the original upholstery so he knows exactly what it should look like. Better news yet is Doc has the makings right now for I believe 5 more batches of seats and head rests for the Scramblers. I implore anyone who is on contemplating getting their seats reupholstered to contact Doc right away before he runs out of the material 815-547-5408. You will not regret this decision.


Amark has new jacking instructions decals

ROGUE BODY : Roger Allen has a rogue body and a few other parts that need a new home.

If anyone wants a copy of my unused original Dealer Order Form which looks like this one: are $1.50 which simply includes shipping, note it is not all four forms, just main front form, but great for display.

This is a small file on my site:

also, I sell copies of the original (from John Conde collection) Kensoha studio photo of the "A" scheme SC/Rambler, complete with dealer memo:

and also since you mentioned the Baja SC/Ramblers, I sell photos of two of them:
scroll down to the 1969 year to view them.

Eddie Stakes'Planet Houston AMX 713.464.8825
email reply currently 5-9 days8-19 day reply times, just call!

sc/rambler hose clamps

Here are examples
Decals underhood , interier and trunk (original and repop) Just redid some !
These are Amark parts
Regulator tag
Air cleaner decal
coolant decal
Emisions decal
Posi Decal

Radio delete plate (Perfect , even has amc number on the back)

Tail light lense w/ gasket

Bought from Gordy
Smog tubes (Solid , make your air pump inoperable by removing the vanes)
More Amark parts
Side markers front and rear

Fuel Filter set:Screws into AFB inlet

Bought from Gordy
Correct Deep dish center caps :

Can get these at several places
Classic hurst shift T handle :Threads need to be reworked to 3/8" fine thread (simple)

Bought from Gordy , Gordy says these are not as OEM , because of safety issues of
originals , these are a great choice . Oem mounts could drop the motor and these will
wedge and hold the engine
Motor and Transmission mounts :

Battery hold down bracket and J bolts . (This is very good repop , Would buy this and not NOS)

Battery cable set (can purchase individualy)

Hi/low beam switch:

Wittek hose clamps (have manufacture , just no date code ) EDM machine anyone?

Hood Pins :Note , these hood pins have a chamfer in the drilled hole the stock oem ones did not have .

Decals (A Scheme)

Windshield and rear window rubber seals

Side window fuzzies , Correct non chrome black bead ..

Head Rests

Reworked seats (fully plug and play)ready to install in your deserving Sc/R

Exaughst Systems and clamps , rear chrome tips are original . But time is hard on them . Replacement ones are sold that are Stainless steel ...


Hoses , radiator and cooling

Drive Belts

Smog parts used , rebuilt or repro

Gasket set Engine . Dont for get the belly pan for the intake .

Oil pick-up set . Factoty reccomended to replace at rebuild time . Tip: put a screw in it so it will not suck into the oil pan . Causing oil starvation (Expensive)

Brake parts

Front end rebuild parts

Bushings for the torque links , control arm , torsion bar ETC .

Tachs can be convereted to look like Sun ST- 635

Hood scoops (near stock some say 99% factory)

The mirrors are first class (need painting and date coded glass if you want )
The black primed mirror is Repro , the others are original and look it

Door handles , outside


Fire wall pad

Sc/Ramblers For Sale (Small list)

Sellers Welcome ,
The cars that were listed have been sold .

I think it will help if there is a month expiration date . So this stays manageable and up to date ..
So let me know if you want to keep your add up longer and please update me if anything has sold .

Any one wanting to put a car wanted or for sale feel free to contact me Bob Rascoe

Thanks and happy hunting

Sc/Rambler Parts Requests For reproduction

Something not be reproduced yet , or want something to be better than what is currently available?? The Squeaky Wheel Gets The Grease !!!

Anomynous said:
rubber seals for the upper rear quarter glass (in the door jam)

I'll look at my car , not sure which seal you are referring too??
Most if not all rubber parts are available .
Inner fender rubber is not yet , but will put it up as a request

Chrome air cleaner cover , same as machine ...

Head rest clips pictured , luckily I was able to help somone out with these , my last two .
They are on a lot of cars , goes on the bottom of the head rest slide . The part that stays in the seat back .They clip onto a wire to stop the head rest from flopping .

The fuel line grommet needs to be reproduced or is there a commonly available substitute? Bill Strobel

Hood Emblem , Same as on all 1969 Rambler 01 Americans . So a good chance ?!


Rear sail Panel side dome lenses

"B" sheme decals ? Bottom blue looks easy to ruin(compound curves)


Etched Sill Plates Shared with AMX/Javelin and Two door 01 (americans) Big demand !

Front and Rear windsheilds (clear glass as OEM )
Note: Will take a crack at this , they can do this . Would like to know cost and qty needed to order ?

Hood pin Lanyards w/ clip (a more correct one)



Stock Lug Nuts

Thrush Mufflers

Sun 635 tach plus cup/mount / wire/ clamp assembly

Rogue Door panel Emblem(s)

Crash(dash pads) They are pretty expensive , a batch order might get the cost down ??

Tire inflation decal (heard mention of these being done )
Amark is working on these along with a better jacking instruction sheet .
Note jacking instruction decals are ready ...

OEM style stainless beauty rings (NOS at $200.00 or close)

Radiator Top tank/ or radiator (319-4331)

Bumpers ?

Hardware kits (oem style )

Front Seat Chrome side cover ( Hearing they are coming )

Cowl rubber seal w/ clips

front fender anti squeek seals

Sc/Rambler Garage/collector Visits

Been in a Buddy's shop and want to post your experience ?
Here you go ........

Met up with Nathan Loban's Place near Albany NY
Bought quite a few engine parts . And was able to spend time chatting and seeing
some very cool Drag AMX's ..Very unexpected to see historical cars !!
Nice restorable Sc/Rambler with a suprise under the hood . Very hot 390
running on VP racing fuel !!Love the smell of high octane in the morning !
Nathan is clearing out a big area in the bacement , so lots of parts might be for sale ...
Had to cut the visit shorter than we wanted , as lots to talk about and see ...
Nate was working on "before" winter projects . The big job was the driveway drainage.
Jack hammering and hand digging big piles of cement and gravel ...
Hope your projects are going well , and hope to see you at my garage Nate !





Mike Lawson in (historic) New Market, Md. has a 1K mile SC/RAMBLER but he doesn't have all the parts in one place (didn't the last time I looked at it).

Fred Phillips in Alberta Canada is one of the tops in my book 5k miles and original dealer display. Worth the trip and you will see lots of other amc stuff amx3 BAJA SC/R --- TOP QUALITY ALL THE WAY. Courtesy of Mike Lewis

Fred Phillips AMX II site:

Sc/Rambler Sources Of Imfo(credits)

Anyone that provides Information and would like to be credited for contributing will be listed here .
Note: May find sources of parts also:

Jim McKee Engine builder , Sc/Rambler judge , Very good source of imfo ..
Here is Jim McKee's contact imfo . Jim is one of the best sources of imfo and always
freely passes excellent imfo . That I trust with out a doubt ..
Enjoy !
Bob Rascoe

Hi Bob, I have no problem posting my phone number or e-mail address. 727) 343-1445 and I am taking a few new customers, but there is a big rush that will start shortly for bracket engines for next season and they take priority here. Street engines around this time can easily get pushed back by the race guys. Regards, Jim

Dave Landrith (Former President Of Hurst IND. Detroit)

H L Shahan ( "The" Guy that made the cars go fast down the track)

Fred Philips (Owner of a 5,000 mile Sc/R , 1969 Baja 4WD , SC/R Dealer Promo kit , AMX II
and many other collectable's ..

Eddie Stakes Houston TX

Joe Roberts , NY


Mike Lewis Nashville , TN

Andre " A.J." Jacobs, web page Owner & Proprietor, South Texas AMC

Jim McKee (Fastrogue )

Bill Strobel : aka the amc guy Fayetteville, NCSC/Rambler Owner Since 19861967 Rambler Rebel1972 Hornet Sportabout1976 Matador Brougham NAMDRA Member AMCRC Member AMO Member

How about You ??? Same pieces are on regular AMC cars in most cases . Shared parts w/ several other models and years . All input thats valid is welcome ...

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Sc/R NOS VS restored or repro parts scrutinized

Will make as big a list of parts to add to your shopping list , yay or nay .
There are some exceptional repro parts . The restoration process will be a lot easier with
the help from everyone that comes up with these parts ..much easier to find than just a few years ago and more are in the works ......

Seat Side cover plates(Chrome plastic)
Has anyone bought these seat sidecover plates ?? e-bay item 140231876708 .
Would like to know the quality . They denied to sell or loan a sample to the blog for review...

Hood Pins :
repop are available , will post phto soon

SC/RAMBLER : ONE NUT EXHAUST CLAMPS - Reproductions are being done by Mike Semeraro - AMXMGS RESTO PARTS 860 483 0043 msem@optonline(dot)net - He has an sc/rambler.

Side view mirrors available now : These are so nice you can take oem mirrors apart and swap
any piece with these !! Only thing is the mirror glass does not have the letters for concourse .
Which can be switched ...
Also need painting , with your choice paint ....

Radio delete plates . Undetectable from original .

Side Markers red and yellowish . b e a u tifull , correct markings etc

Brake / Tail lamp lenses : again look like the real thing

Fuel filters (screw in to the afb carb) Sweet !

Decals / kits , opinions?? I know they are available from a few sources ...

Sc/Rambler parts interchange

Here is a link to Jim McKee's Exchange list and a lot of really helpfull tips :

I researched these parts below, Bob Rascoe

Radiator according to the amc parts manual : is 319 4331 cars listed that would have the same part are:69 01 -10 V8 70 10 V871 10 V8

Hood : 66 - 69 ( some might have emblem holes to fill)

Hood Hinge : 66 - 69

Hood strike : 66 - 69

Radiator support 69 01's only (differance w / 67-68 ???)

Front Hood support 69 01's only (Differ from 67 -68 ???)

Grill support : 66 - 69

Cooling Fan :

Cooling Fan Shroud :
Note : V8 Steel non a/c 68-69 cars

Steering Wheel : Wood grain wheel with aluminum center . AMX had these also

Smog parts : The correct smog brackets are from non power steering cars .

Head rests: These are on so many cars and styles of seats , here is what they look like:

Seats , front twin bench: These are ( 1969 only) twin bench . Can be found on any american , station
wagon , sedan , rogue . Most had a bench seat , but the twin bench were an option .
Seats , Rear bench
Rogues are the only correct back seats . years ??

Bumpers Front 66 - 69 01's
Bumpers Rear 66-69 01 rambler american
Note: The bumpers front /rear are not the same

Bumper brackets : Front 66 - 69 01
Rear ??

Fenders : 67 - 69

Quarter panels: ? 67 -69 01 2 dr body , mod to put a sedan Q/P on the Hadrtop(no post)
Posibly could use 1966 , but not where the tailight is .?

Floors : Front floor panels , some use the front AMX available floor pans

Rocker panels: Some are using the AMX available rockers .?

Front valance panel : 67 - 69

Rear valence : 67 - 69

Trunk Floor : 66-69

Trunk Rods : 66 - 69

Trunk support : 66 - 69

Trunk lid :66 - 69 (may have emblem holes to fill)

Headlight bezels : 67 -69

Head lights 69 only . must be the stay glow ones ?

Tail lamps housing : 67 - 69

Turn signal housing front :69 only (66 - 68 had a differant light socket ??)

front turn signal lens : 66 -69

Windsheilds Front: 66-69 all 01 body

Windsheilds Rear : 66-69 hardtop (no post) only

Door Panels : 69 Rogue only

Dash :
Note : dash should not have the hole for the emergency brake warning light

Crash/dash pad :

Shifter parts :

Trans : Date coded , other wise you pick .

Engine :
Engine has an ID tag on pass side front valve cover . A "W" should be on the tag if you are going original ..Other than that 68 and 69 motors are the same ...w 4bbl

Engine Intakes : 68- 69

Engine heads : 68 -69

Engine front crossmember 66-69 V8 (its modified)

Engine Rear crossmember 66-69 V8 ( Its Modified) cut and plate welded for shifter clearance

Rear End : Posi :

Torque Links :

Clutch :
Clutch linkage:

Front Disc brakes : four piston bendix AMX / javelin

E-Brake handle

Styled Wheels :
Styled Trim rings
Spare Tire Rims: Steel 14 X6

Instrument cluster:
Real deal : Should have Round dots on the speedometer . This sems to be a 1969 rambler o1 item ?
This photo is from a 1969 01 plain jane car
Same as the Sc/r's that seem to just have this cluster . Info appreciated
Six out of six Sc/Ramblers at gordy's had the round dots .
photo's coming on my cars speedo

Note : to just have a cluster to keep your car on the road ,use any (year coming)

Emblems :

Trunions :

Friday, April 25, 2008

Restoration Links

Any helpfull links ...
More Body work and painting places :

Metal working . These guys can make panels , invisable repairs . And Much More ... Is a real metal workers paradise . I attended metalmeet 2005.
Would like to get envoled with this more !!

Auto Restorer magazine Online

Sc/R Rusty ? We can help

list of trouble areas , causes and cures .

From what I notice so far , is that there are some definite rust areas to look at and prevent .
Every make has its spots to look for deterioration .
I'll kick this off and looking for input :

From what I can tell on my cars that are rustiest . The engine compartment , trunk and rear quarters and rear Floor pans can take a lot of abuse . And still hold up .

Rust areas that are most common IMO would be the:
drivers side front floor pan (either from salt states or the windsheild leaking .
, then the drivers rocker panels . The hood at the front underside about four inches in .
The tail pan is suseptable to rust ..

So how to deal with this? What panels are available to R&R the rust ?

hole was never sealed. This opening is at the
joint of the trunk pan, wheel tub, and the
quarter panel. It seems like an effort was
made to seal this but was seldom successful.
This area is directly subjected to the most corrosive combinations known
(after battery
acid). The tire's seem to direct water and road
dust at the percise angle needed to do
the most damage. The drain holes, at the bottom
of the quarter panels, are small and often clogged by body sealer used in
the trunk to try and stop
the rust problem.

RUST !! IN FRONT OF THE REAR WHEELS AND DIRECTLY UNDER THE REAR QUARTER WINDOW (mid way door and wheel). This small spot is due to the window cranksupport. The support runs directly behind the quarter sheet metal and very little rust proofing could be applied. Water runs down the window and into this area.

Stay tuned ..

Sc/R Minutia

The really detailed very interesting information . This as "correct" as it gets , Enjoy !!
Thinking Extreme Minutia , will be put in where the info fits into the Concourse List...
Keep it cohesive

spare wheel info:
Bob, This is the code next to the valve stem of the spare tire wheel in my SC/RAMBLER : K191(stem hole)21 6 K = KELSEY HAYES (MANUFACTURER), 1 = AMC? (NOT SURE ABOUT THAT ONE?), 9 = YEAR, 1 = JAN., 21 = DAY, 6 = DIMENSIONS OF THE WHEEL

Door Tag:
Note: was informed the paint code "spec" or "special "tags . Are first 500 builds
Info Courtesy of Walter Miller

factory & Dot recalls

Here is a recall Document:
Courtesy of Mike Lewis

Air Cleaner BottomNote 1:One recall as far as we can tell so far is the Air cleaner bottom .Appears to of been no holes from Kenosha , and the cars were recalled and the dealersDrilled the 1/4" hole(s) . Any more info on these Topics , Am all ears ...This is what we believe came original to an SC/R after ,the dealer drilled .

Note 2: Factory recall on the lug nuts . Apparently the stainles steel cover on the lug nuts
would seperate and Make the lug wrench not fit . Hearing the Dealer would swap these
out during a maintanance . And not say anything to the customer ...??More on this , hopfully soon

Topic Seats :

Seat Belts :
This was in the glove box

Topic : Instument cluster
Hash marks or dots on the speedometer : DOTS is Correct !
Dots on the speedometer (also note the copper color, this was chrome but it deteriorated...

Topic : Smog
Here are the air injector tubes that bolt on the exaughst mainfolds , The bolt is hollow for the air to pass through . These tubes are repops and are solid .To use them is for looks and the vanes in the smog pump should be removed .
Picture courtesy of Gordy Chilson
Here is the pump and hoses plus diverter valve .
Photo's courtsesy of Bob Rascoe

Paint detail :

SC/RAMBLER : ''A'' RED PANEL - (SEE ATTACHMENTS) These two points seem
to be the only places that the red
panel of the ''A'' paint scheme is
''free-hand''. The other parts of the
panel follow body lines.

Paint detail : This is the drivers side battery mount holes . There are four holes to tape over(three if your fuel line goes through one of them ). The smog pump bracket will end up with a bolt head not painted . The car should have primer showing after the tape is removed .
Photo here :
The tape was black and it was put on before the car was painted.
The one nut that was not painted is the one at hold the lowest part of the smog pump

Paint details :
regarding SC/Ramblers.
#5 SC/Rambler rear crossmembers were black paint.
#10 SC/R master cylinder lids are silver chromate and the master cylinder was natural.
#11 SC/R entire differental and cover was black paint.
#17 SC/R engine brackets are black paint.
#28 SC/R front crossmembers are black paint.
#40 SC/R sway bar brackets are painted black under all the undercoat.
I will be the first one to tell you I didn't adhere strictly to these finishes on my car. The car will be shown in the Hurst modified class and the things I did were to make the car easier to clean between shows. Stuff like painting the whole bellhousing, the transmission, the crosslink and pittman arm would be where I deviated. These things can't trigger a points deduction in modified, but may cause a deduction in stock class depending on the judge. Usually only a point or two.( quoted by Jim McKee (Fastrogue)

Emblem Placement :

SC/RAMBLER : ''RAMBLER''emblem placement - The ''RAMBLER'' emblems, on
> the L&R fenders, seem to be in the stock 1969 (rambler) positions. The
> rear ''RAMBLER'' emblem's base line seems to be aprox. 1 7/8 inch above
> the base line of the black panel. THE REAR ''RAMBLER'' EMBLEM IS NOT IN
> THE STOCK 1969 (RAMBLER AMERICAN) POSITION. --- Bob Rascoe reports that
> SC/RAMBLER : ''HURST''emblem placement - Starting with a base line that
> will be the base line of the ''RAMBLER'' emblem. The top of the ''H'',
> in the ''HURST'' emblem, is aprox. 3/8 inch from that line. The forward
> slash is aprox. 1/4 inch form the base of the ''R'' in the ''RAMBLER''
> emblem.
Front Fender Photo

Note: Emblem detail :
Some owners/restorers have found braze to plug holes for the stock "69 Rougue emlem placement .
Here is a 69 Rogue Trunk Lid :
Wisconson car
Texas / Arkansas Car
PA Car
Looking for photo's of the braze spots .

SC/RAMBLER : MIRROR MOUNT - The screws used to mount the the mirrors on my SC/RAMBLER are #8 sheet metal with #6 Phillips head (chrome). I use one inch. The tips of the screws are angled towards each other and seem to hold the mirrors by grappling. The angle forms a claw that may hold the mirrors much better. The rear tips of the SC/RAMBLER mirror base is not very Strong and this grappling seems to take a lot of stress off that area.

Topic : Lights
For 1969 AMC started using Guard Glow bulbs in the headlight system. The Guard Glow bulb was designed so that in the event that a bulb burnt out there would still be a faint glow noticeable so that an oncoming car would see two lights instead of just one. Guard Glow bulbs were a one year only deal as in 1970 the parking light circuit was changed to stay on when the headlights were on. Prior to that the parking lights did not illuminate with the headlights. Pre 1970 TS headlights have a wide pattern in the lines cast into the headlight lens. 1970 and up bulbs use a narrower finer pattern of lines in the lens. The 7" TS (Tungsol) bulbs (correct for the SC/R) are very rare. They are almost impossible to find NOS. Bill Strobel

Topic : lights
Licence plate light

Body Plugs:
The body plugs that were used near the exhaust were metal. I only have two on my SC/RAMBLER (over the mufflers).


Here is a link to Exhaust also(reccommended read):

SC/RAMBLER : EXHAUST - (EXTREME MINUTIA)Details of the original factory installed SC/RAMBLER exhaust system. - The normal AMC factory installed exhaust system used a BUMP/SLOT arrangement that allowed quick alignment on the assembly line. The inside pipe had a bump on it that fit in a slot on the outside pipe. This system is also used on 50% of the SC/RAMBLER exhaust. The bumps are used as stops in the outlet of the muffler section.The ''ONE NUT'' muffler clamps were also used to speed installation. The SC/RAMBLER intermediate pipes were of unequal lengths and may not have USED the BUMP/SLOT system. The intermediate pipes seem to be unique to the sc/rambler. Driver's side header pipe seems to be standard AMX. The pass. side header pipe seems to have been cut or bent form the standard v8 Rogue ''Y'' header pipe. This may be the reason for the unequal and unequal and unique intermediates.


SC/RAMBLER : THRUSH MUFFLERS - The ''round'' THRUSH MUFFLER is #3163. The body is 16''long, inlet is 2''I.D., and the outlet is 2''I.D. The ''oval''THRUSH muffler seems to be #3168 and has the same body length and inlet and outlet dimensions. The ends of the mufflers were cut to a length of 2 1/2''- 3''.


Decals :

The Trunk Blue decal overlaps slightly below the trunk lock . Because of the trunk is a compound curve .

Decals : under Hood , Interior and Trunk

Note : Body Emblems (underhood , interior and trunk)
The ''WEATHER EYE'' on the dash bezel is blacked out and has a clear ''WEATHER EYE'' sticker over the controls. The weather eye controls have a place for light but I have never seen one put in. Mike Lewis

weather eye , Controls
Weather eye light window
Weather eye blacked out detail
Note : Underhood decals
Underhood , interior amd trunk decals more

SC/RAMBLER : EXTREME MINUTIA - The original SUN TACH clamp details : IDEAL CORP., BLKYN NY, SNAPLOCK, SIZE 56 - The new Ideal replacement clamps now have : made in Mexico
Note : Minuitia : Tach clamp photo's

SC/Rambler Concourse Restoration Details
I do not think the sheet metal bolts wih the C in the head recess are still available. What you can do though is go to a junkyard and look for the fasteners on any late 60s early 70s AMC as these were used on all of the different cars and they come in various sizes. They can be bead blasted and painted a natural steel or sent out to be silver cad plated. While you are at the yard score some bolts with the TR logo on the heads. Again used all throughout the AMC Line in a variety of sizes, lengths, and either fine or coarse thread. Bead blast and paint or send out to be silver cad plated. These bolts are available new from AMK Products: also has new reproduction radiator caps with the AM logo. Someone recently was doing the AMC single bolt style exhaust system clamps. I know they have the 1 7/8" one done and they said they were to have the 2" ones done soon. Anyone know who and if the 2" ones are available?
Bill Strobel

SC/RAMBLER : REPOSITORY - INTERIOR PAINT (CHARCOAL MATALLIC) LUCITE CODE 9595L FLAT - ENGINE PAINT (ALAMOSA AQUA METALLIC) P-68, LUCITE CODE 5061L, DUCO CODE 5061, DULUX CODE 5061DNOTE : THE RED ON THE DECALS DID NOT SEEM TO BE BRIGHT RED. One explanation : The BRIGHT RED is darker due to being placed on top of the black 3m vinyl base material. Leigh Allen ( is trying to accomplish an exact replication of the decals using the same silk screening process as the originals.

SC/RAMBLER : RADIATOR DETAILS - The BLACKSTONE radiators had part numbers on the top. The numbers could be : 318 6082, 6088, 319 4331 or ???? (WE NEED SOME INPUT ON THIS SUBJECT.)
Note:Radiator according to the amc parts manual : is319 4331cars listed that would have the same part are:69 01 -10 V8 70 10 V871 10 V8 If you find an extra let me know..

M. LEWIS wrote:

SC/RAMBLER : EXTREME MANUTIA - The screws used on the firewall have a small ''c'' on the head. These are no longer available but it is easy to refinish originals. One option is the exact same screw with the letter ''0'' on the head that could be altered (may still be available) ?

RE: Seat belts (STORAGE?
SC/RAMBLER : SEAT BELTS (& SHOULDER HARNESS STORAGE) - I've had SC/RAMBLERS that had metal clips for shoulder harness storage. These clips were located at the edge of the roof line (on the headliner).The other type of storage is plastic clips located on the rear panels (below the ashtrays). A.M.C. placed a seat belt use and operation pamphlet in the glove box that shows the type of storage provided. The pamphlet is part of the owner's packet.

SC/RAMBLER : INSPECTION MARKS AND STICKERS - I only know of one person that has duplicated the inspection marks and placed the correct assembly (OK) stickers on his restored SC/RAMBLER. I will try to contact him for that information.
(Follow up???)


This comes from Steve Parsons who has examined countless original AMC cars, researched the finshes and colors of various items and applies not only to the SC/R but all late 60s early 70s AMCs. For the cars with power brakes the master cylinder and power brake unit were painted as an assembly and installed. The finish on the master cylinder cap was gold zinc dichromate (underneath the paint) and then the both the power brake booster and master cylinder were painted a semi-flat black including the cap and bale wire before being installed. Bill Strobel


SC/RAMBLER : EXTREME MINUTIA - The clamp for the tach runs between the directional lever and the flasher switch. The tach covers the gas gauge.
(Have reports the tack position varies from two to three o-clock ?)

SC/RAMBLER : EXTREME MANUTIA - The original glass in the side mirrors had a code on the edge. A-AX-9 seems to be the correct code.
Mike Lewis

SC/RAMBLER : AIR CLEANER BASE - The SC/RAMBLER air cleaner base had four drain holes drilled (1/4 inch). Mike Lewis
(I have a base that has one hole, no way of telling if original . So discount it?)

SC/RAMBLER : HEAT STOKER SPARK PLUG SHIELD - The spark plug shield under the intake heat stoker is not the same as the other three. This detail is the same on all AMC v8s.
(Have heard of NO variations so far)

Topic : Oil Fill

Bumper Jack Details:Finish and parts views

Topic : Paper Plates / Patch
Not sure of the whole story , The cars had the paper plate . The patch ??

Topic : Speedometer
Have seen a lot of Sc/Ramblers plus 1969 01 body rambler have Dots instead of hash marks.
Please let us know if you have seen differant on a factory stock Sc/R . This seems like a year 1969 item .
With Dots Photo

Note : The original SUN TACH clamp details : IDEAL CORP., BLKYN NY, SNAPLOCK, SIZE 56 - The new Ideal replacement clamps now have : made in MexicoNote : Clamp photo's

Note:This is the Sun ST-635 ...635 looks the same as a 602 except the "st 602"print would have to be blacked out from the face of the unit.And the red line added.
Here is a st-635 just in :
Here are some ST-602's Odd one does not have the st-602 on the face... !?

3.700-2 Base , tachometer
69 09 ..................................1 319 - 86953.700-3

Harness , tachometer wire
69 09 .....................................1 319 - 8697

carpet install .
Here are pictures from a few of my cars . Some of a gutted SC shows the cowl pad . The other appears to be oringinal B scheme .
I see the carpet has the plastic push holder . But it looks short ??
I copied a few of the guys that can verify this stuff

Heres the original appearing carpet shots B scheme car
These are from a gutted SC/R . Also appears factory :I can try to take better shots of the drivers side , the car is sardined pretty tight at the moment ...

Topic :Glove Box
Whats in your glove box ?

Owners Manual (Printing revision? to include the 390 CI Engine)

TOPIC : Dealer handouts

AMC dealer handout.front, inside, and back (one page).
The word''REPRINT'' is not a stamp, it is printed on the page. I am sure AMC and/or Hurst paid for this handout. What is on the back of your copy of the of the magazine?
This is one page with no staples.
Coutesy Of Mike Lewis

Bob's reply : My magazine has a Javelin Add On the Back cover . Neat ! Thanks again Mike ...
Mikes Photo's here

Thrush decals

Seat Belt Stowage sheet

Sc/Rambler embroidered patch (cool)
And ?

Topic: What Promo Items did the dealers have in the Show Room ?


Anything related to maintenance , tune up specs etc.

Brakes: Booster & M/C , Etc:
Article by Jim McKee ,

There are also two versions of the single diaphram power disc brake booster that fits SC/Ramblers. The biggest rebuilder of power brake boosters is Cardone.

I have gotten single diaphram boosters that just won't haul a SC/Rambler down as it did when new. SC/Ramblers in 1969 stopped 16 feet quicker than a Jaguar from 70 mph. If you bought one of the weaker Cardone single diaphram boosters they have, at least in my case, replaced it with the stronger one, which works like the original.

SC/Rambler booster's have a straight in screw in check valve at 10 o'clock looking at the booster with the master cylinder pointing at you. Cardone doesn't have any SC/Rambler booster cores and you have to send yours in to get a rebuilt one. This means you will get yours back when rebuilt. New correct straight in check valves are available from Kennedy American for $ 10.00 .

The brake line pressure limiter on disc brake cars, that is back on the passenger's side frame rail near the flexible hose to the rear axle is an IMPORTANT piece of the brake system on disc brake cars. If you convert front drums to disc you need this piece.

I had replaced a SC/Rambler power brake booster on a customer's car with a Cardone unit and the car just did not stop very well. After going through every other brake component on the vehicle, I complained to the vendor I bought the rebuilt booster from. He called Cardone and told me the guy he talked to could add 100 pounds of boost to the unit I had. When it was returned to me and installed it functioned just like the original booster and the vehicle stopped like a SC/Rambler should. I don't know what the "boost" setting or "rating" was of the booster I initally got, but the second one with the plus 100 pounds boost worked quite well. I have no idea how to tell what boost a particular power brake booster is.

I am having similar problems with the Kelsey Hayes pressure limiter valve on the passenger frame rail by the flexible hose to the rear axle. I know there were 200 and 400 pound limiter valves, because they have different AMC part numbers. You are supposed to be able to tell them apart by a blue paint daub on the 200 pound valves, that were used on SC/Ramblers and on disc brake AMXs, Javelins and Americans. The 400 pound valve has a black paint daub. The paint daub would be a wonderful way to tell them apart if they weren't all almost 40 years old by now and the paint is long gone! I have an extensive collection of these things and have tried to find someone to decode the numbers stamped into the body of these things, with NO success.

K-H is Kelsey-Hayes the now defunct manufacturer. The company that bought K-H is still making these things, but they don't know if they are 200 or 400 pound units and didn't realize there were originally two different ratings. They only thing they know is they fit 68 big block Camaros. There are also three digits followed by a "-" and then a single 8 or a 9. I am guessing this is the year they were manufactured. I don't have a guess as to what the three numbers signify. Just another obscure AMC circular reference!

As to suggestions on installing the linkage, booster, and master cylinder, I put the booster on the linkage section and leave the hardware loose. Push the master cylinder brake lines down out of the way. I position the linkage on the firewall studs again with loose hardware, push the booster towards the middle of the car and finesse the master cylinder in and then tighten eyerything up. Ratchet wrenches are a help. You already know how tight a fit all these parts are.

Transmission Pops out of gear :
Article written by Jim McKee

These are the items that cause an AMC T-10 in SC/Ramblers to not remain in gear besides the shifter handle hitting the seat in second and fourth. The seat interference problem is easily corrected by bending the shift handle at the bend about an inch at the T-handle. I know most SC/Rambler owners don’t want to bend and re-chrome their shift handles, so check these other items first;
Shifter adjustment. If the synchro sleeve is not moved completely into mesh with the synchro teeth on the gear it will often pop out. Readjust the shifter using a 1/4" drill or dowel pushed in the hole that runs through the shifter body and levers. Replacing the original nylon lever bushings with Hurst steel bushings tightens up the shifter.
A bent shifter fork can prevent the sleeve from fully engaging the teeth on the gear. The result is similar to an out of adjustment shifter. Replace the bent shifter fork. Please note; 1st and 2nd fork is the same as the 3rd and 4th fork.
The levers that bolt to the side of the transmission are loose and the effect is the same as bad shifter adjustment or bent fork. Tighten the levers. Usually requires readjusting the shifter.
The "C" shaped springs inside the synchro assembly that press on the three rectangular slider retention pieces inside the synchro sleeve are weak and this allows the sleeve to contact the teeth on the gear before the two are turning the same speed preventing them from fully engaging. Replace the entire synchro sleeve assembly. Individual parts are not available for synchro assemblies other than the brass synchro rings. The brass rings are available from Mr. Gasket in a four pack for Chevrolet T-10s. AMC T-10 small parts kits, shifter forks, front and rear seals, main shaft bearings, yoke bushings, bearings, first and reverse gear, and gasket kits are still available. Notice I did not include input shafts, reverse idler, third, or second gear, or the counter shaft. Many parts books list the same bearing for the input and mainshaft. The correct input shaft bearing has bearing shields and these metal rings cover the balls and prevent oil from flooding the front seal and leaking. The rear mainshaft bearing should not have these shields.
If the teeth on the gear or inside the synchro sleeve are worn and rounded off, they will be forced out of engagement (pop out of gear). They should look like a house with the roof peak pointing toward the synchro sleeve. If they are rounded off or broken the trans will not stay in gear. The teeth inside the sleeve need to be pointed the same shape as those on the gear but facing the gear. Please refer to the available parts listing in the previous paragraph. Speed shifting your SC/Rambler with the accelerator on the floor is not a good idea, because of the AMC T-10s limited gear availability.

The clutch is not properly releasing the disc. Readjust the clutch free play. If the free play adjustment is used up or makes no difference the clutch is probably worn out. The clutch can be rusted to the input shaft and this holds the disc in contact with the flywheel or pressure plate. Either of these items can prevent the synchro sleeve from fully engaging the gear increasing the likelyhood of coming out of gear. Replace the clutch. I suggest using a Hays street/strip diaphragm unit for Chevrolets 10 1/2" diameter disc with 1 1/8"x 10 spline #40-111, the pressure plate #33-610. For this clutch to work properly, the throw out bearing collar needs to be shortened by .200" where the throw out bearing presses on and the bell crank to fork lever must be lengthened to allow correct adjustment range. The big benefit with this clutch is it releases the disc much faster than the original Borg and beck clutch with rpm assist rollers and the transmission shifts are greatly improved. This clutch is rated for 500 horsepower and 7000 rpm.
The transmission is not in line with the crankshaft. This usually affects 4th gear only.
If the roller bearings inside 4th gear that ride on the mainshaft in front of 3rd gear synchro assembly are worn this can promote the trans coming out of 4th or 3rd gear. If the ball bearing on the mainshaft is galled the vibration can allow the trans to come out of gear. Usually 1st or 2nd. If the needle bearings in the countershaft are galled at the rear of the shaft this usually affects either 1st or 2nd or both. If the needle bearings are galled at the front of the shaft this usually affects 3rd or 4th or both.

Anonymous said...
VALVE STEM SEALS : Seems like the seals need to be replaced on all the original low mile engines ?

Personaly , after that many years , even low miles . Would think it would be time to put aFull gasket and seal kit in ...The gaskets fall apart after so many years .


This section will be Group 19 Factory recomended vendor and parts .
Everything should be true to the era ...
I've heard of one guy who has a group 19 motor w/vendor machine work(AMC reccomended )
How rare is that , could be the only one ?

Note : Jim McKee's Car (may be the only surviving group 19 that has had this much work done)
Rare , you think ??
Jim says ,
The engine was built at NELSON Competition. The heads were ported by ODDY and have Manley 2.100/1.625 valves with the exhaust crossover filled with aluminum. The intake is a very early R-4B from the "Group 19" catalog purchased before I even received my original SC/ Rambler. It is one of two I have seen without the "Edelbrock" logo cast in. It does have the 448 5728 cast in behind the carb flange. The distributor is a flat cap Mallory with the Mallory Voltmaster coil that was also ordered from the local dealer before the car came in. The Allman and Roberts valve covers are new from Herman Lewis. The rebuilt carb is the Holley 780 3310-AAS carb purchased in 1969. You can see why I like the engine! Regards, JIm

Reply : Yes , that is amazing to have had done and still be here . Cool as cool can be !!

Topic : Group 19 List

Group 19 parts that fit SC/Ramblers;
448 6719 Cam and kit (302 advertized duration hydraulic lifter)
448 8475 Blocked heat riser manifold gasket
448 5728 Edelbrock R-4B intake manifold
448 5730 Holley 950 three barrel carburetor
448 7900 Mallory YL flat cap distributor w/o tach drive
448 7901 Mallory YL flat cap distributor w/ tach drive
448 8059 Mallory Voltmaster coil
448 6228 Edelbrock Crossram STR-11 intake manifold* (std. on SS AMXes w/ 2-660 Holley #4224)
448 5742 Delco capacitor discharge distributor and ignition box
448 7989 Crane Gold roller rockers with studs
4486997 Detroit locker differential
448 5741 Aviad oil pan
448 5726 & 448 5727 Doug's headers w/ removeable tube for starter removal
Rear gear sets;
448 5749 3.73
448 5750 3.91
320 8546 4.10
320 9854 4.44
448 6587 5.00
*No carburetors listed in 68 to 72 parts book for crossram.
Edelbrock also offered a UR-18 tunnel ram w/ 2-1150 Holleys # 6214, but there was no AM part number for these parts.

Topic : Group 19 Power partsNote : I'm including this group as , My personal belief among owners is that original machine work by AMC reccomended vendors . And factory original group 19 parts should be accepted . This type of dedicated work done on the car really needs to be recognised in sanctioned events .Even if only one exists . Might as well make trophys out now (hopefully) : This from Muscle Car Review :Muscle Car Review magazine, July 1990 Group 19 by Barbara Hillick. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- AMC high-performance parts were second to none. When anyone mentions that they collect AMC musclecars, the common response is laughter from Chevy, Ford or Mopar owners. After all, Rambler had built an image through the years based on economy and reliability. When 1968 rolled around, AMC finally gave other performance cars more serious competition with the AMX and Javelin. When introduced in 1969, the SC/Rambler ran a 14.3 quarter straight off the showroom floor. Finally, with the introduction of the Rebel Machine in 1970 and the SC/36O in 1971, AMC showed that it had more than economy on its mind. The basis for all performance cars is the parts available to make the cars stand out from the crowd. Parts like the Cross Ram were available for Chevy and Ford owners. Mopar owners had the Hemi engine, Six Packs, and a few other items to make their cars move on down the road. Somehow, no one seems to think of AMC as having performance parts. That's where they're wrong! AMC took its first step into the performance market in 1966 when it introduced a totally new engine. This eight-cylinder 290 engine offered all kinds of performance possibilities to AMC owners when it was offered in a total of 625 cars in 1966. Available with either a two- or four-barrel carburetor, this block became the basis for future AMC performance engines. In 1967, the 290 was joined by a 343 engine. In February 1968, the highly desirable 390 joined the lineup. AMC V-8 engines are unique because they are based on one basic block design. They have the same external dimensions and the 304 (used in 1970 and up), 343 (1967 through 1969), 360 (1970 and up), 390 (1968-70) and 401 (1971 and up) were obtained by boring and stroking the original 290 block. The major change between the engines was a deck height of 9.165 inches in 1966-'69 and the change in deck height to 9.208 inches in 1970. These differences affected the intake and push rod interchangeability. With some minor internal block changes, such as thicker webbing, AMC had some performance engines on its hands. Just by changing to dog leg heads in 1970, performance was increased. Unfortunately, by 1972 the compression ratio was lowered to meet emission standards and the performance capabilities of the engines dropped [[not as much as normally assumed]]. AMC reacted to its new 290 engine by coming up with some interesting parts to make AMC more competitive in the performance market. These parts have become known to AMC owners as ''Group 19'' parts. This term is used simply because of the way that AMC organized its parts books. Group 1 was engine parts, Group 2 was cooling, Group 3 was electrical, etc. Group 19 was the section devoted to high-performance equipment. The first company to offer an AMC performance part was Edelbrock. The R4B high-rise aluminum four-barrel intake manifold (part number 448 5729 for 1967-'69 and number 448 8409 for 1970-up) took its place in AMC history. These intakes were sold through the dealers with the part number cast in them and were also offered withoutthe part number through Edelbrock. The R4B high-rise aluminum four-barrel manifold has it's roots in Group 19 in AMC history. These intakes were sold through dealers with the part number cast in them and were also offered without the part number thru Edelbrock. If the R4B wasn't good enough, Edelbrock offered a Cross Ram intake, the Edelbrock STR 11. This dual-carbed, two- piece intake was made of aluminum and had a removable top half. A few hundred were made with the AM part number 448 6228 stamped in them for 1967-'69 and 448 8411 for 1970 and up. Edelbrock also offered them without the part number stamped on them. AMC offered only the intake and linkage, so the carb selection was up to the owner, but anything over about 650 cfm didn't work particularly well. No air cleaner assembly was offered and no provisions were made for the heater hose and control, The intake also did not have an inlet for the brake booster line and didn't have enough vacuum for a power brake unit. These intakes were used on all SS/AMXS. The Edelbrock STR11 Cross Ram intake is a dual-carbed, two-piece intake made of aluminum which featured a removable top half. What good is a new intake without a new carb? AMC offered an optional Holley three-barrel carb with vacuum secondaries to replace the Carter AFB. The carb was used for all years and was available as part number 448 5730 or with the R4B and the carb as a set (1967/69 448 5731 and 1970/up 448 8410). The heat passages needed some work before bolting on the intake because the exhaust gases passed under the intake. This warmed the incoming fuel and operated the automatic choke. Unfortunately, warm fuel in performance driving (i.e. drag racing) doesn't help getting to the end first. To alleviate the problem, AMC offered a special intake manifold gasket to block the passage off (1967-'69 448 8475 and 1970- up 448 8476). The 290 and 343 had cast ''malleable'' connecting rods which were not exactly performance oriented. For these engines, AMC offered forged connecting rods (number 448 5725). The cranks were made from modular iron, so a special forged steel crankshaft (number 448 5728) was offered, A cam kit was overed that consisted of the cam, pushrods, lifters, double valve springs, seals, keepers, retainers and studs (1967-'69 with standard and four-speed transmission, number 448 6719 and 1970-'71 with standard and four-speed transmission number 448 8413). The 390 and 401 rods and cranks were forged steel from the factory, All AMC pistons were cast-aluminum. Different compression ratios were achieved by the dish on top. The factory recommended use of forged pistons for performance applications but did not include these parts in the Group 19 parts. They recommended contacting J. E., Venolia, etc., for information. A few 360 four-bolt main blocks were also available as part number 448 8937 in 1970. The Group 19 cam kit consisted of the cam, pushrods, lifters, double valve springs, seals, keepers, retainers and studs; as wellas a forged crank and heat blocker manifold gasket. Special performance rocker arms with longer screw-in studs were part of the Group 19 parts. The studs were number 448 7918. The set consisted of keeper nut (448 7987), hold down (448 7988) or rocker arm, keeper nut and hold down under part number 448 7331. A complete set was available as part number 448 7989. Special performance rocker arms with longer screw-in studs were also part of the Group l9 parts. A dual-point ignition was not on AMC'S factory list, so that problem was eliminated with the addition of a Mallory dual-point with tach drive (448 8062) or without (448 8049). The complete high-performance ignition system could be ordered as 448 7900 without the mechanical tachometer drive and as 448 7901 with mechanical drive. A special three-piece distributor cap and external condenser was pad of the package. In addition, a Capacitor Discharge Ignition System was offered under part number 448 5742. A complete high-performance Ignition system could be ordered with or without the mechanical tachometer drive. ln addition to the high-po ignition system, Group 19 also offered a special capacitor discharge system. The first thing that most people do to add horsepower to their car is the addition of headers. Although AMC did not offer them directly, it told AMC owners where to buy the headers and assigned part numbers 448 5727 and 448 5726 to them. Jardine, Doug Thorley and Bellanger were the three California firms the factory recommended. AMC also offered a 8.5-quart deep sump oil pan (448 5741) which had to be ordered directly from two California companies, Aviad Metal or Racing Components. Other special orders in the pads book were a set of heavy duty rear brake drums (448 5736 and 448 5737) or heavy duty front disc brakes with hub and caliper (448 5732 and 448 5733). Rear disc brakes with hub and caliper (448 5734 and 448 5735) were also available. All of these parts could be special ordered from Ronnie Kaplan Engineering. the company that helped build AMCs Trans Am cars. Kaplan also offered a l5x8-inch road wheel, along with American Racing Equipment. Gears were also overed to improve the quarter-mile times. For 1967, part number 320 8551 got a 4.44:1 gear. For 1968, a 3.73 (448 5749), 3.91 (448 5750), 4.10(320 8546), 4.44(326 9854) and 5.00 (448 6587) could help move AMCS a little faster. But what good are new gears if your car just spins? To help with that problem, a positive-locking differential could be ordered as part number 448 6997. Group 19 equipment featured a variety of gears to improve the quarter-mile performance. Although torque links were standard items on AMXs, they were Group 19 parts on the Javelin and V8s such as the SC/Rambler (these could also be used on the Hornet and Gremlin). Special plates were bolted to the frame and part number 448 5582 was used for the Javelin and 5448 5753 for the SC/Rambler. Although torque links were standard items on AMXs, they were Group 19 parts for the Javelin, SC/Rambler and Gremlin [[and Hornet..and therefore, Spirit and Concord]]. Group 19 also offered a couple of non-mechanical parts. A full front fiberglass spoiler was available for the 1968-'70 AMC and Javelin as part number 364 1522. The spoiler mounted by brackets to the lower fender braces and in the center by a bracket. The rear deck lid could sport a rear wing (899 2357). The first version did not have any metal end plates attached to the spoiler. Because of problems with the original spoiler, a second version was produced. The Group 19 part and the spoiler used on the 100 Trans Am Javelins produced were made of fiberglass and had a metal end plate attached to each end of the spoiler. The spoiler rode between two metal ''stands'' that attached to the deck-lid. The Group 19 spoiler had two holes drilled in the bracket so the spoiler could ride in either location. Group 19 also offered a couple some non-mechanical parts, like a full front fiberglass spoiler and an adjustable rear wing. Two other spoilers were offered on AMXs and Javelins but they were not Group 19 parts. A stainless steel front spoiler (899 2553) was available on 1968-'70 AMXS and Javelins as an accessory. The Mark Donohue spoiler was used on 1970 Javelins only and was a regular part. A roof spoiler was also available on the 1969-'70 Javelin only as a regular part. There was no great mystery about the Group 19 parts, but they have gotten very difficult to find through the years. The spoilers are available in reproduction, but the other parts are "look until you find them" items. Group 19 parts could only be ordered from the dealer and could not be special-ordered on a car directly from the factory. Some of the parts caused minor problems, like not being able to close the hood on your car when it had an R4B and stock air cleaner, no air cleaner available with the Cross Ram and headers that hung too low. But, with the addition of these parts, at least AMC let people know that there was an alternative to Grandma's Rambler!

Article by Colin Hillyard below

Hi Bob,
Just thought i'd send you an e-mail regarding some of the info you show on the Group 19 Mallory dual point ignition kits. I've been doing a lot of digging lately as i'm restoring a '70 AMX and I am going for a bit of a 'day 2' feel - torq thrust wheels and some period speed parts in the engine bay. Long story short, I'm going the mallory route for distributor and coil.
About a year ago, a guy had a complete 448 7901 (with mechanical tach drive) for sale on e-bay ($1500 and no bids). Best thing was, he included really good images of all the items included. The distributor, 'coil' (its labeled as a 'transformer') and the street/strip switch are all identified as 'Rev-Pol Mark II' items and the dist tag,coil tag and street/strip faceplate are blue. The mallory part numbers are:
Distributor - ZC564AM (with mech tach drive) - I don't have the non-tach drive part number but the 3 digits would be different as that was how Mallory identified the different castings. ZC makes it a vacuum advance model - which it was, and the parts book diagram shows it that way as well. Mallory used YC on models with no vacuum advance. I was kinds surprised that AMC went the ZC way as 'no vaccum advance' was usually the way racers would go.
Distributor Cap - 4001 - was the part number for the complete 3 piece cap assembly. You can find these on e-bay (NOS for 'stupid' money!) and i'm sure at swap meets. There is a more traditional style of cap available for ZC's and YC's - I don't know if Mallory ever offered it - but Napa Echlin shows the MA5 (vented) and MA9 (non-vented) but i think they are starting to get a bit harder to find - i just ordered one of each and they were the last ones in the US warehouse.
Transformer (coil) - 28675A - so it has an added letter 'A' and it is identified as a transformer, not as a coil. So technically, it wasn't a Voltmaster, even though the case is identical. The case got a lot of use, I've got a copy of a Mallory bulletin from the mid-fifties that shows it as a Magspark Transformer and near the end of it's use there was even an 'Electronic' version.
Street/Strip Switch - 28700 - from what i have read, when you switched to 'strip', it would bypass the ballast resistor and supply full juice to the distributor. They also said not to use it all the time as it would fry the points.
Ballast Resistor - 700 - this is the new Mallory part number, i don't know if it is exactly the same but sure looks to be.
Condenser - 25010 - this is the original brass case one that isn't produced anymore.
To add to the confusion the 'Double-Life' distributor is basically a twin of the Rev-Pol, simply put, it's basically the way it's wired that makes it different. They both have dual points that operate on a 4 lobe cam in the distributor (thus the name 'double-life as the points only worked half the amount versus single points).
I've managed to find a used AMC Double-Life YC531HP (non-mech tach drive, no vacuum advance) that is in reasonable shape. To cover off replacement parts i bought a complete NOS big block Buick Double Life for $99 - everything except housing/shaft interchange. I really like the look of these vintage pieces, though i will more than likely convert it using an Ignitor II as that will work with the Voltmaster coil.
Hope this is of some help.
Colin Hillyard