Saturday, May 23, 2015
Thursday, February 19, 2015
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
Initiated by a recently very active SC/Rambler Facebook posting, and some off and on past investigations of what could be made as reproduction, I have created a complete engineering drawing of a NOS hood pin cable. I purchased this cable as part of an incomplete set of an SC/Rambler NOS Hood Pin Kit in Kenosha 1993. The reference AMC part number is 3635760 - which is the lynch pin (including cable). I have decided to call this the "-B" part since we will further document the lynch pin as the 3635760-A part number.
I have documented the original part through non-destructive inspection as the Rev. 0 document revision. This will serve as documentation evidence of how the factory supplied these parts. I am now in process of documenting a Rev. 1 version of the drawing to serve as a specification for reproduction and I am currently investigating how close manufacturers can come to providing low volume lanyards to this specification.
The drawing is specifically for SC owner personal use, and I am providing my work here for free to provide the owners with the documentation they need to preserve their cars. I would appreciate your respect for the use for only that specified purpose. Contact me for any other use. Below is the drawing and several photos of an NOS lanyard.
Sunday, December 14, 2014
Thursday, September 25, 2014
We had a recent question about the Brake Booster for the Sc/R and have some very good info donated by our panel of experts . Thanks to James McKee and Dan Curtis for these tips
The question From Larry:
Hello, do you have a pictures of the brake booster and the mounting bracket. I am not sure I have correct one. The brake pedal sits about 3 inches of the floor and does not have but little brakes. I ordered a new master from ADP but the booster does not act like its working. Also there are no spacers on the bracket is this correct? Thank You, Larry Allen
From Dan here:
The pivot bolt is frozen inside the shaft. We see it all the time at the
restoration shop. Here is a picture of what is frozen. It is the square
headed bolt that goes through the hollow horizontal shaft.
From Jim: Hi Bob, Picture of a SC/Rambler booster attached. Notice the brake pedal to booster arm is straight from the brake pedal to the booster, Unlike the dog-leg arm on AMXs and Javelins. The SC/Rambler brake booster bracketry uses no spacers on the firewall. The largest brake booster rebuilder I know of is Cardone. They tell me there are some internal adjustments that effect the amount of brake boost transferred to the brake master cylinder. I use Kennedy American to rebuild all the brake boosters I use on my cars and customer’s cars, because he asks what car the brake booster came from and has your brake booster rebuilt and returns it. I am most satisfied with all the units he has done for me! I put a grease fitting in the bottom of the tube where the bracket pivots on the 1/2” diameter shaft with the square end. A shot of grease every couple of years keeps the bracket from freezing to the shaft and wallowing out the bracket with the square hole supposed to keep the shaft from turning. SC/Rambler booster check valves go straight into the brake booster housing. The master cylinder needs to on the brake booster with the hardware loose on the booster master cylinder studs for installation in SC/Ramblers, because there is no room to get the nut nearest the fender on the stud once the booster is installed. Its just way easier to take the master cylinder loosely attached to the booster and bracket assembly to get the master cylinder it in or out. With the booster out of the car its an ideal time to check out your clutch bellcrank bushings and boots, because of how much easier it is to change them if necessary. Regards, Jim